GR 221 – Day 4

Deià to Refugi de Muleta 06.03.2024

Being my birthday and considering the long days we had the last two days we decided to take a chill day. That being said I also didn’t want to miss all of the shore walking in the next section, so we decided to follow the shore trail for a while then take a bus to Sóller (which is actually past where we are staying), so we could pick up some warmer layers.

The coastal walk was a lot of fun, even with our sore legs. We walked for a couple hours then checked the bus schedule and realized we might be able to make the next bus to Sóller so we tried to rush up to the stop following a hiking path listed on the Kamoot app, but found ourselves having to jump a fence that led to the back of a closed hotel. Se we decided to go back and have some snacks by the sea and grab the next bus. The way down to the beach wasn’t as easy as we thought.. because why would it be? After a little break we headed back up, this time leaving a little more time. The bus stop was along a winding road high up with a view of the ocean and a nice place in the shade, with a surprising number of bicyclists on the road.

When we got to Sóller we headed straight to our first pick for lunch La Romaguera Restaurant. It was listed as closing at 3:30 and we got there not too long before that. The meal was amazing. So amazing that I’m going to post pictures and the details (which I never do). There was more on the menu I wanted to try, but my stomach just wasn’t big enough.

  • LA VACA COCA – Confit Galician blonde beef coca with caramelized onion, roasted Sóller orange jam, and mayonnaise made from its juices.
  • IBERIAN PIG – Slow cooked ibérico pork belly bao bun, tartara sauce and shisho leaves.
  • ZAMBUREIAS – Galician queen scallops, miso cream and currants.
  • SAPULPEIRA – Fresh Mallorcan octopus, paprika and potatoes.
  • ASSORTMENT OF CHEESES – “Tetilla” cheese from Galicia, Idiazabal cheese from Basque Country, Goat cheese from Cádiz, half aged Mahon cheese from Menorca and blue cheese from Asturias.
  • TACORDERO – Marinated lamb tacos, guacamole cream and pickled onions.

After the meal we did some much needed shopping. I underestimated how cold the weather would be with the wind, and although I brought a puffy, I left my fleece behind, also the forecast changed and Bettina needed another pair of leggings, and the forecast changed for the next couple days and now it’s looking like rain and wind on our last two days, which means the emergency poncho I brought might bot be good enough, particularly in high wind. We managed to find a place that had something for us at a reasonable price.

After that we took the bus to Port Sóller and sat for a bit on the sandy beach there. We probably should have dipped our feet, but with the sun going down it was getting colder out so we decided to skip it.

The refugi is at the lighthouse on the left

We realized that sunset would probably be best from the refugi, so we started the kilometer or so walk up the hill to try and make it in time.

Looking back at Port Sóller while walking up the hill

We made it just in time for sunset! Dinner at the refugi was good, although it paled in comparison to lunch. We relaxed, had a couple drinks and prepared for another big hiking day.